Ford P1336 Code: Crankshaft/Camshaft Sensor Range/Performance
The Ford PCM sees the cam and crank signals out of step, usually from a mistimed or worn cam synchronizer.
At a glance
Severity: Moderate
- Meaning
- Crankshaft/Camshaft Sensor Range/Performance
- System
- Ignition & Misfire · Powertrain
- Safe to drive?
- With caution
- Typical repair cost
- $80–$1,800
- DIY difficulty
- Moderate
The PCM uses the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor for engine speed and piston position and the camshaft position (CMP) sensor to know which stroke each cylinder is on, which it needs for sequential fuel injection. P1336 means the two signals don't line up the way the PCM expects, or one of them is noisy or erratic. On Ford's pushrod V6 engines, such as the 3.8 in the Windstar and V6 Mustang and the 3.9 and 4.2 in the Freestar and Monterey, the CMP sensor sits on top of a camshaft synchronizer that drops into the old distributor bore. If that synchronizer is installed without the proper alignment tool, or its bushings wear and the shaft wobbles, the cam signal shifts relative to the crank and P1336 follows. Ford's definition differs from GM's use of the same number, so ignore generic advice about 'crank variation relearn' for a Ford.
Can I keep driving? The engine usually keeps running, but it may idle roughly, stall or start poorly. Drive gently and get it fixed soon; if the engine starts to misfire heavily or the synchronizer is squealing loudly, stop using it until repaired.
How to read P1336
- P Powertrain
- 1 Manufacturer-specific
- 3 Ignition / misfire
- 36 Specific fault
Symptoms
- Check engine light, often right after a cam sensor or synchronizer was replaced
- Rough idle, stumbling or occasional misfire
- Longer cranking before the engine starts
- Stalling at idle or when coming to a stop
- Squeal or chirp from the rear of the engine where the synchronizer sits
- Oil seeping around the base of the synchronizer
Possible causes
Ranked by how often each cause is behind this code (editorial estimate).
- Camshaft synchronizer installed out of alignment after replacement or removal
- Worn synchronizer bushing or bearing, or a failed CMP sensor on top of it
- CKP sensor fault, damaged trigger wheel or metal debris on the sensor tip
- Damaged, oil-soaked or poorly shielded CKP/CMP wiring
- Stretched timing chain or jumped timing
- Electrical noise from a failing alternator diode
Diagnosis step by step
Check the repair history
Ask whether the cam sensor or synchronizer was replaced recently. A new P1336 right after that work almost always means the synchronizer went in misaligned, and re-timing it is the fix.
Inspect the synchronizer
Grab the synchronizer housing and CMP sensor and try to rock them. Any side play, a squealing noise with the engine running, or oil pooling around the base means the internal bushing is worn and the unit should be replaced.
Tools: Flashlight
Check the alternator ripple
With the engine running, measure AC voltage across the battery. More than a few tenths of a volt AC points to a failed alternator diode, which can corrupt cam and crank signals and must be fixed before replacing sensors.
Tools: Multimeter
Inspect CKP sensor and wiring
Remove the CKP sensor and look for metal particles stuck to the tip or damage. Check both sensor connectors for oil intrusion and the harness for chafing near exhaust or belts.
Tools: Flashlight, Screwdriver
Re-time the synchronizer
Bring cylinder 1 to top dead center on the compression stroke, then set the synchronizer with the correct alignment tool for your version (there are different tools for two- and three-wire sensors) before tightening the hold-down. Some scan tools display a cam position error value that should read near zero afterward.
Tools: OBD-II scanner, Torque wrench
Suspect timing if the code persists
If a correctly installed synchronizer still sets P1336, check for a stretched timing chain or jumped timing. A lab scope comparing cam and crank signals makes the offset obvious.
Tools: OBD-II scanner
Where the parts are
- 1Ignition coil
- 2Spark plug
- 3Fuel injector
- 4Camshaft sensor
- 5Crankshaft sensor
- 6Engine computer (ECM)
- 7Intake manifold
Repair options & costs
| Repair | DIY? | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|
| Re-time camshaft synchronizer | Yes | $80–$220 |
| Replace CMP sensor | Yes | $80–$220 |
| Replace camshaft synchronizer assembly | Yes | $180–$480 |
| Replace CKP sensor | Yes | $120–$320 |
| Replace timing chain and gears | No | $900–$1,800 |
Rough US estimates for parts and labor; shop rates vary by region. Not a quote.
Emissions / smog test impact
Will fail
P1336 keeps the check engine light on, so the vehicle fails an OBD emissions test. After re-timing or replacing parts, the misfire and other monitors need a few drives to complete.
Frequently asked questions
I replaced the cam sensor and now have P1336. What went wrong?
On these Ford V6s the sensor mounts on a synchronizer that must be timed to the crankshaft. If the synchronizer was lifted out or replaced without the alignment tool, the cam signal ends up out of phase and the PCM flags it.
What is the squealing noise near the back of the engine?
A worn synchronizer bushing often squeals or chirps, especially at idle. Left alone it can wobble enough to upset the cam signal, and the worn seal usually starts leaking oil as well.
Is Ford's P1336 the same as GM's P1336?
No. On GM vehicles P1336 relates to a crankshaft variation relearn. On Fords it's a cam/crank correlation fault, so the fix is completely different.
Could my alternator really cause this code?
Yes. A failed diode sends AC ripple into the electrical system, which can distort the small sensor signals the PCM reads. It's a cheap test worth doing before buying sensors.
Sources
- Manufacturer public service information (cross-checked)
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