Ford P1401 Code: DPFE Sensor Circuit High Input
The Ford DPFE sensor that measures EGR flow is sending a voltage above anything it should produce.
At a glance
Severity: Low
- Meaning
- DPFE Sensor Circuit High Input
- System
- Emission Controls · Powertrain
- Safe to drive?
- Yes, short term
- Typical repair cost
- $10–$300
- DIY difficulty
- Easy
The Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) sensor on older Ford gasoline engines turns the pressure drop across a metering orifice in the EGR tube into a voltage, from well under 1 V with no flow up to a few volts at full flow. P1401 sets when the signal climbs near the 5 V reference, higher than the sensor ever outputs in normal operation. Most of the time the sensor itself is to blame: it sits right next to hot exhaust plumbing, and the older aluminum-bodied versions in particular are known for failing from heat and moisture. Less often the signal wire is shorted to the 5 V reference or the sensor's ground (signal return) has opened up. Because a high DPFE reading looks like large EGR flow to the PCM, it may cut back EGR or misjudge flow, and on some trucks a bad sensor causes rough running as the EGR valve is mis-commanded. Newer Fords use the generic P0406 for this fault instead.
Can I keep driving? Fine to drive while you arrange the fix. If the idle turns rough or the engine stumbles off the line, it's usually the EGR being mis-controlled, which isn't harmful but is worth sorting soon.
Try this first – 5-minute fix
- Inspect the two hoses Find the DPFE sensor, usually on a bracket near the EGR valve or throttle body, and check its two rubber hoses to the EGR tube for cracks, softening or melted spots. Replace them if they're anything but supple.
- Check the connector Unplug the sensor, look for green corrosion or water, clean the terminals with electrical contact cleaner and plug it back in firmly.
- Install a new DPFE sensor If the code returns, replace the sensor with the later plastic-bodied design, making sure each hose goes back onto the same port it came from; the ports are marked on the sensor body. It's typically two small bolts, two hoses and one connector.
- Clear and verify Clear the code and drive at steady highway speed so the EGR monitor can run. The code shouldn't return if the sensor was the problem.
How to read P1401
- P Powertrain
- 1 Manufacturer-specific
- 4 Auxiliary emission controls
- 01 Specific fault
Symptoms
- Check engine light with P1401
- Rough idle or stumble on some models as EGR is mis-controlled
- Occasional light pinging under load
- Cracked, swollen or melted DPFE hoses visible under the hood
- Otherwise often no noticeable change
Possible causes
Ranked by how often each cause is behind this code (editorial estimate).
- DPFE sensor failed internally, especially heat-damaged aluminum-bodied versions
- Moisture or corrosion inside the sensor connector
- Signal-return (ground) wire open, leaving the signal floating high
- Signal wire shorted to the 5 V reference
- Damaged or melted sensor hoses allowing condensation into the sensor
Diagnosis step by step
Read DPFE voltage key on, engine off
Check the DPFE PID or back-probe the signal wire. Near 4.5 V or higher with no exhaust flow confirms the high-input fault; a normal low reading means the fault is intermittent.
Tools: OBD-II scanner, Multimeter
Unplug the sensor and recheck
With the sensor disconnected and key on, the PCM's signal reading should drop close to zero. If it stays high, the signal wire is shorted to the 5 V reference somewhere in the harness.
Tools: OBD-II scanner, Multimeter
Test the signal return
Measure resistance from the sensor's signal-return pin to the PCM's signal ground; it should be only a few ohms. An open return leaves the sensor output floating high, which mimics a failed sensor.
Tools: Multimeter
Check sensor response
With a good sensor installed and the engine warm, the DPFE reading should rise as EGR is commanded, for example during steady acceleration, and fall back at idle. A sensor that sits high at idle is faulty.
Tools: OBD-II scanner
Where the parts are
- 1MAF sensor
- 2Turbocharger
- 3Throttle body
- 4Intake manifold
- 5Fuel injector
- 6EGR valve
- 7Fuel pump
- 8Thermostat
Repair options & costs
| Repair | DIY? | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|
| Replace DPFE hoses | Yes | $10–$60 |
| Replace DPFE sensor | Yes | $60–$200 |
| Clean or repair connector | Yes | $20–$120 |
| Repair shorted or open sensor wiring | No | $100–$300 |
Rough US estimates for parts and labor; shop rates vary by region. Not a quote.
Emissions / smog test impact
Will fail
P1401 turns on the check engine light and leaves the EGR monitor incomplete, so the vehicle fails an OBD emissions test until it's repaired and the monitor has run.
Frequently asked questions
Why do Ford DPFE sensors fail so often?
They sit close to hot EGR plumbing, and exhaust gas with moisture reaches the sensing element through the hoses. The older aluminum-bodied versions were especially vulnerable; the later plastic design holds up better.
Do the hoses really matter?
Yes. Cracked or melted hoses let condensation and heat reach the sensor and cause wrong readings. A hose that has come off or is plugged sets its own Ford codes, P1405 for the upstream side and P1406 for the downstream side.
Should I buy the cheapest DPFE sensor I can find?
Quality varies a lot, and a sensor that reads slightly off can set EGR flow codes later. A reputable replacement of the updated design is the safer choice for a part this cheap.
Is P1401 the same as P0406?
Functionally yes. Ford used P1401 for a high DPFE signal on older engines and switched to the generic P0406 on later models.
Sources
- Manufacturer public service information (cross-checked)
- Methodology: How We Build Code Pages · Data Sources We Use · Editorial Policy