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Severity: Moderate Code type: Generic (all makes)

P0238 Code: Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High

The boost sensor signal is stuck near 5 volts, so the computer sees impossibly high boost and cuts power.

At a glance

Severity: 3/5 – Moderate3/5

Severity: Moderate

Meaning
Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High
System
Fuel & Air Metering · Powertrain
Safe to drive?
With caution
Typical repair cost
$40–$550
DIY difficulty
Moderate

A boost pressure sensor normally sends between roughly 0.5 and 4.5 volts depending on pressure. P0238 sets when the signal sits above the top of that window, usually 4.8 volts or more, for longer than a moment. To the engine computer that looks like extreme boost even at idle, so it opens the wastegate or vanes fully, limits fuel and often goes straight into limp mode, which makes the engine feel very weak. The cause is almost always electrical: a sensor whose output has failed high, a broken ground wire that lets the signal float up to the reference voltage, or the signal wire touching the 5-volt feed inside a damaged connector or melted harness.

Can I keep driving? The engine is safe to run because the computer protects it by cutting boost, but power is poor. Drive gently to a shop, and avoid situations where you'd need full acceleration.

How to read P0238

How to read P0238P10223384
  1. P Powertrain
  2. 0 Generic (SAE)
  3. 2 Fuel & air (injector circuit)
  4. 38 Specific fault

Symptoms

  • Check engine light and immediate limp mode, often right at start-up
  • Boost reading showing a very high value even with the engine idling
  • Very little power, turbo seems completely off
  • Sometimes an overboost code stored alongside
  • Aftermarket boost gauge (if tapped into the sensor) reading odd or maxed out
  • Fault stays present after a restart, unlike most intermittent issues

Possible causes

Ranked by how often each cause is behind this code (editorial estimate).

  1. Boost pressure sensor output failed high internally 30%
  2. Open or corroded sensor ground circuit letting the signal float up 22%
  3. Signal wire shorted to the 5-volt reference in the connector or harness 20%
  4. Signal wire shorted to battery voltage (chafed against a powered wire) 8%
  5. Wrong sensor fitted, with a different voltage scale 8%
  6. Aftermarket gauge or module spliced into the signal wire 7%
  7. Engine computer input fault (rare) 5%

Diagnosis step by step

Diagnostic flow: P02381Read the raw voltage2Unplug the sensor and watch thevalue3Check the ground wire4Look for a short between signal andreference5Check for battery voltage on thesignal wire6Fit the correct sensor and confirm
  1. Read the raw voltage

    With the key on, engine off, display the boost sensor voltage if your tool offers it. A value of 4.8 to 5.0 V, or a pressure reading at the top of the sensor's range such as 36 to 44 psi absolute on a 2.5- or 3-bar sensor, confirms the stuck-high signal. A healthy sensor would read about 1.0 to 2.0 V here.

    Tools: OBD-II scanner

  2. Unplug the sensor and watch the value

    Disconnect the sensor with the key on. The computer pulls an open signal line low, so the reading should drop to minimum and a low-circuit code may appear. If the value stays high with the sensor unplugged, the signal wire is shorted to a voltage source somewhere in the harness.

    Tools: OBD-II scanner

  3. Check the ground wire

    Back-probe the ground pin and battery negative with the key on and the sensor plugged in. More than about 0.1 V means resistance in the ground path. An open ground makes many sensors drive their output right up to the reference voltage, which looks exactly like P0238.

    Tools: Multimeter

  4. Look for a short between signal and reference

    With the battery disconnected and both the sensor and computer connectors unplugged, measure resistance between the signal and 5-volt reference wires. It should be open, well over a megohm. Any continuity means the wires touch, often where the harness passes a hot charge pipe or has been pinched under a bracket.

    Tools: Multimeter

  5. Check for battery voltage on the signal wire

    With the sensor unplugged, measure the signal wire to ground with the key on. Anything above 5 V, especially 12 V, means a short to a switched power circuit and must be fixed before fitting a new sensor, or it may damage the replacement and the computer input.

    Tools: Multimeter

  6. Fit the correct sensor and confirm

    Verify the replacement matches the original part's pressure range and connector. After fitting it, key-on voltage should fall back into the 1 to 2 V range and rise smoothly under boost. Clear the code and confirm the engine pulls normally.

    Tools: OBD-II scanner, Multimeter

Where the parts are

Ignition: coils and spark plugs per cylinder – P02381234567
Ignition: coils and spark plugs per cylinder
  1. 1Ignition coil
  2. 2Spark plug
  3. 3Fuel injector
  4. 4Camshaft sensor
  5. 5Crankshaft sensor
  6. 6Engine computer (ECM)
  7. 7Intake manifold

Repair options & costs

RepairDIY?Estimated cost
Repair broken ground wire or clean ground point No $40–$200
Replace boost pressure sensor Yes $80–$320
Replace damaged sensor connector No $60–$220
Repair shorted harness section No $150–$550

Rough US estimates for parts and labor; shop rates vary by region. Not a quote.

Emissions / smog test impact

Will fail

With the check engine light on, the vehicle fails OBD-II emissions testing. This code tends to stay active constantly, so it won't clear on its own before a test.

Frequently asked questions

If the computer thinks boost is too high, is my engine in danger?

No, it's the other way around. The boost isn't really high; the signal is. Because the computer believes there's too much boost, it opens the wastegate or vanes and cuts power, which protects the engine but leaves you with very little performance.

Why is it usually not the sensor with a high code?

A failed sensor is still the most common single cause, but an open ground or a short to the 5-volt feed produces the same stuck-high voltage. The unplug test and a ground check take minutes and tell you which it is.

Can a boost gauge I installed cause P0238?

Yes. Some electronic gauges tap into the factory sensor's signal wire, and a poor splice or a gauge that adds its own voltage can pull the signal high. Disconnect the gauge wiring and see whether the code returns.

What's the difference between P0238 and P0234?

P0234 means the computer believes real boost is too high, based on a plausible sensor signal. P0238 means the signal itself is out of range at the top. If both appear together, check the sensor circuit first.

Sources