P0332 Code: Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low (Bank 2)
Knock sensor 2 reads too low. On a V engine it's the bank without cylinder 1; on some fours, the rear pair.
At a glance
Severity: Low
- Meaning
- Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low (Bank 2)
- System
- Ignition & Misfire · Powertrain
- Safe to drive?
- Yes, short term
- Typical repair cost
- $60–$1,500
- DIY difficulty
- Moderate
P0332 means the engine computer sees an input from knock sensor 2 below its lower limit: the bias voltage on the signal line is pulled down, the circuit is open on designs that read an open as low, or the sensor produces almost no signal while the engine runs. On V6 and V8 engines, sensor 2 serves bank 2, the side without cylinder 1: the passenger side on GM and Chrysler, the driver's side on Ford. Some inline-fours, notably older Volkswagen and Audi engines like the 1.8T, also have two sensors, and there 'bank 2' simply means the sensor for cylinders 3 and 4. The engine usually runs normally, but the ECU pulls ignition timing back on that bank as a precaution, which costs a little power and mileage.
Can I keep driving? Normally safe to drive. Use at least the octane your engine calls for and avoid lugging it at low rpm under heavy load, because the ECU can no longer hear knock on that bank.
How to read P0332
- P Powertrain
- 0 Generic (SAE)
- 3 Ignition / misfire
- 32 Specific fault
Symptoms
- Check engine light with little or no change in how the car drives
- Slightly duller throttle response and a small drop in mpg from protective timing retard
- Knock retard shown on bank 2 cylinders in live data even at light cruise
- Faint pinging under hard acceleration on regular fuel
- P0327 stored at the same time when both sensors share a harness
Possible causes
Ranked by how often each cause is behind this code (editorial estimate).
- Sub-harness or connector to sensor 2 corroded, cracked or shorted to ground, often under the intake
- Sensor 2 loose, wrongly torqued, or sitting on paint, rust or a washer so vibration doesn't reach it
- Knock sensor 2 cracked or internally failed
- Signal wire open after intake manifold or cylinder head work
- Shield or ground fault, or the cable shield shorted to the signal wire
- Low-quality replacement sensor with weak output
- ECU knock input fault
Diagnosis step by step
Identify sensor 2 and where it lives
On V engines it serves the bank without cylinder 1: passenger side on GM and Chrysler, driver's side on Ford. On two-sensor VW and Audi fours, it's the one near cylinders 3 and 4. Check whether it sits in the valley under the intake or on the side of the block; that decides the labor.
Tools: Flashlight
Read the context of the code
If P0327 is stored too, look at the shared sub-harness or connector first. Note the freeze frame rpm: many ECUs only run the low-input test above a certain speed, so a code that sets only at higher rpm suggests a weak rather than dead sensor.
Tools: OBD-II scanner
Tap test on AC millivolts
Engine off, back-probe the sensor 2 signal with the meter on AC millivolts and tap the block near the sensor with a small wrench. A healthy piezo sensor answers each tap with a visible spike; no response means an open sensor, a short or a loose mount.
Tools: Multimeter
Measure resistance and check for a short
Unplug the sensor and measure across its pins and from the signal pin to the block. Depending on design it reads open or a specified value, roughly 120 to 280 kΩ on many Toyota sensors. A low reading to ground means a failed sensor or a shorted wire.
Tools: Multimeter
Remount it correctly
When reseating or replacing, clean the mounting boss to bare metal, skip washers and sealant unless the maker specifies them, and torque to spec, often around 15 lb-ft. An under-torqued sensor is a classic cause of a low-input code.
Tools: Torque wrench, Soft brush
Confirm bank 2 timing recovers
Clear the code and drive under load. Bank 2 knock retard should drop to near zero at cruise and spark advance should match bank 1.
Tools: OBD-II scanner
Where the parts are
- 1Ignition coil
- 2Spark plug
- 3Fuel injector
- 4Camshaft sensor
- 5Crankshaft sensor
- 6Engine computer (ECM)
- 7Intake manifold
Repair options & costs
| Repair | DIY? | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|
| Repair or replace sensor 2 connector or pigtail | Yes | $60–$250 |
| Replace side-mounted knock sensor 2 | No | $150–$400 |
| Replace valley-mounted sensors and sub-harness (intake removal) | No | $450–$1,100 |
| Repair shield or ground wiring | No | $100–$300 |
| ECU repair or replacement | No | $600–$1,500 |
Rough US estimates for parts and labor; shop rates vary by region. Not a quote.
Notes by brand
Toyota
Many Toyota V6 and V8 engines, such as the 1MZ-FE and 3MZ-FE, place both knock sensors in the valley under the intake manifold, connected through a short engine sub-harness. That sub-harness is a well-known failure point and is normally replaced together with the sensors while the intake is off.
Volkswagen
Older VW and Audi four-cylinders such as the 1.8T use two knock sensors on the intake side of the block. Sensor 2 covers cylinders 3 and 4 and is reported as bank 2 even though the engine has one bank. The sensors are sensitive to correct torque, commonly specified at 20 Nm.
Emissions / smog test impact
Will fail
P0332 turns the check engine light on, which fails an OBD-II emissions test. Clearing the code also resets the readiness monitors, so drive a few days before the retest.
Frequently asked questions
What's the difference between P0332 and P0330?
P0330 is a general fault in the knock sensor 2 circuit. P0332 is specific: the signal is below the minimum, usually from a short to ground, an open on systems that read open as low, or a sensor that's loose or dead.
Can a loose knock sensor really set a code?
Yes. The sensor hears vibration through its mount. A loose bolt or rust and paint under the sensor can weaken the signal enough for a low-input code, even though the sensor itself is fine.
Should I replace both knock sensors at once?
On engines where they sit under the intake, yes: replacing both plus the sub-harness while it's apart is sensible because labor is the expensive part. If the sensors mount on the side of the block, replace only the faulty one.
Will premium fuel make the code go away?
No. Higher octane lowers the chance of real knock, but P0332 is an electrical fault. Still, run at least the recommended octane until the sensor works again.
Sources
- SAE J2012 – Diagnostic Trouble Code Definitions
- ISO 15031-6 – Road vehicles, diagnostic trouble code definitions (EOBD)
- Manufacturer public service information (cross-checked)
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