Samsung Dishwasher Error LC – Leak Detected – Water in the Base
The leak sensor under the tub got wet, so the Samsung stopped filling and ended the cycle.
Safety first · Consult a professional
Unplug the dishwasher or turn off its breaker before removing the lower panel, and close the water supply valve under the sink. Wipe up any water on the floor right away to avoid slipping and to keep it away from outlets.
- Unplug the appliance or switch off the breaker before opening any panel. Mains voltage can kill.
- Water and electricity: unplug first, keep towels ready and never stand in water while the appliance is connected.
At a glance
Severity: Moderate
- Meaning
- Leak Detected – Water in the Base
- System
- Samsung · Dishwasher
- Typical repair cost
- $0–$450
- DIY difficulty
- Moderate
LC means the leak sensor in the base of the dishwasher detected water. The control stops the cycle and blocks the water inlet so no more water can escape; on many models the drain pump also runs to empty the tub. The code stays until the sensor is dry. On Samsung units, suds from the wrong detergent and water escaping at the door are the most common triggers, but a loose connection under the tub can do the same, so it pays to find the source before simply drying and restarting.
How it looks on the display
Model families & display variants
| Model family | Shows | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Top-control models | LC | Displayed on the hidden panel at the top of the door. |
| Front-control models | LC | Shown in place of the remaining time; the cycle is stopped. |
| Some other Samsung model families | LE | Some models report the same leak condition as LE. Check the error list in your manual to confirm. |
Symptoms
- LC on the display and the dishwasher won't start
- Drain pump running on its own
- Water or foam under the dishwasher or on the floor in front
- Lots of suds in the tub
- Code returns after a few minutes of the next cycle
Possible causes
Ranked by how often each cause is behind this code (editorial estimate).
- Oversudsing from hand dish soap, laundry detergent or too much rinse aid
- Water escaping at the door: tall items blocking it, a worn gasket or the unit not level
- Loose inlet or drain hose connection under the tub
- Leaking sump, pump seal or internal hose
- Leak sensor wet from a spill, or a faulty sensor or harness
Fix it step by step
Power off and shut the water
Unplug the dishwasher or switch off the breaker and close the hot water valve under the sink. Mop up any water on the floor.
Tools: Towels & shallow pan
Look for suds
Open the door and check for foam. If someone used hand dish soap, scoop out the suds and run a Rinse cycle without detergent once everything is dry.
Tools: Towels & shallow pan
Check the door area
Look for items that hang below the lower rack or stick out and push the door, and inspect the door gasket for tears. Check with a level that the dishwasher isn't tilted forward.
Tools: Flashlight
Remove the lower panel
Unscrew the kick plate below the door and shine a light into the base. Note whether the water is clear (inlet side) or dirty (drain and sump side).
Tools: Screwdriver, Flashlight
Dry the base thoroughly
Soak up the water with towels and leave the unit unplugged with the door open for at least a day. A fan pointed at the open base speeds this up; the sensor must be completely dry.
Tools: Towels & shallow pan
Watch a test cycle
With the kick plate still off, restore water and power and start a short cycle. Watch the base from a distance with a flashlight, without touching anything, to see where water first appears.
Tools: Flashlight
How to reset LC
- Leave the dishwasher unplugged or the breaker off until the base and leak sensor are completely dry.
- Restore power; LC should be gone if the sensor is dry.
- Run a short cycle and check under the unit. If LC returns, the leak is still active.
Where the parts are
- 1Door lock
- 2Water inlet valve
- 3Filter
- 4Circulation pump
- 5Heating element
- 6Drain pump
- 7Float switch
- 8Temperature sensor
- 9Water level sensor
Repair options & costs
| Repair | DIY? | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|
| Dry the base, switch to dishwasher detergent | Yes | $0–$15 |
| Level the unit or tighten a hose clamp | Yes | $0–$20 |
| Replace door gasket | Yes | $30–$75 |
| Technician leak diagnosis | No | $120–$250 |
| Sump, pump seal or leak sensor repair | No | $200–$450 |
Rough US estimates; technician call-out fees vary by region. Not a quote.
When to call a technician
Call a technician if LC comes back after a full dry-out with the correct detergent and a properly closing door, especially if you find dirty water in the base. Also call if LC shows with a base that is completely dry, which points to the sensor or its wiring.
Frequently asked questions
Can I just keep using the dishwasher after LC clears?
Only if you found an obvious one-time cause like dish soap. Otherwise the leak is still there and the next cycle will trigger LC again or damage the floor.
Why does the pump keep running with LC?
It's a protective reaction: the dishwasher tries to empty the tub so no more water can leak out. Cut the power while you dry and inspect the unit.
How long does it take for LC to clear?
As long as it takes for the base and the sensor to dry, often a day or more. A fan helps; restarting too early usually brings the code straight back.
Which detergent prevents LC from suds?
Only products made for automatic dishwashers: pods, tablets, powder or gel. Hand dish soap and laundry detergent foam up heavily and can push suds past the door seal.
Sources
- Official Samsung user documentation and support pages (facts only; wording is our own)
- Methodology: How We Build Code Pages · Data Sources We Use · Editorial Policy