LG Dishwasher Error AE – Leak Error – Water in the Base Pan
Water collected in the LG base pan and lifted the leak float. Find the leak before restarting.
Safety first · Consult a professional
Unplug the dishwasher or turn off its breaker and close the supply valve before removing the lower panel. The inlet valve and pump wiring sit right next to the base pan, so never reach in with power on.
- Unplug the appliance or switch off the breaker before opening any panel. Mains voltage can kill.
- Water and electricity: unplug first, keep towels ready and never stand in water while the appliance is connected.
At a glance
Severity: Moderate
- Meaning
- Leak Error – Water in the Base Pan
- System
- LG · Dishwasher
- Typical repair cost
- $0–$450
- DIY difficulty
- Moderate
AE is LG's leak error. A small float sits in the base pan under the tub; when water collects there, the float rises and the control stops the cycle and shuts the water inlet. LG units show AE more often than people expect right after installation, because the supply line fitting at the inlet valve and the drain hose clamp at the pump are both hidden behind the lower panel. On an established install, suds and door leaks are more typical. Either way the error clears only after the base pan is dry and the float has dropped.
How it looks on the display
Model families & display variants
| Model family | Shows | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Top-control models (QuadWash and similar) | AE | Shown on the display on top of the door. |
| Front-control models | AE | Replaces the remaining-time readout. |
| Some older LG model families | E1 | Some older models report the leak condition as E1. Check your manual's error table to confirm. |
Symptoms
- AE on the display and the dishwasher won't run
- Drain pump may keep running
- Water on the floor near the front feet
- Water or dampness under the sink at the supply connection
- Suds leaking out around the door
Possible causes
Ranked by how often each cause is behind this code (editorial estimate).
- Supply line fitting at the inlet valve not tight, or missing/pinched washer
- Oversudsing from the wrong detergent
- Door leak: gasket damaged, items in the way or unit not level
- Drain hose clamp at the pump or sump connection leaking
- Internal leak at the sump, pump seal or spray arm supply
- Float stuck up or faulty leak sensor
Fix it step by step
Cut power and close the supply
Unplug the dishwasher or switch off the breaker, then close the hot water valve under the sink. Wipe up any water on the floor.
Tools: Towels & shallow pan
Check under the sink first
Feel along the supply line and the valve under the sink for moisture. A drip here can run along the line into the dishwasher base without ever showing on the floor.
Tools: Flashlight
Remove the lower panel
Take off the kick plate and look at the inlet valve connection on the left or right front corner and at the drain hose clamp near the pump. Water trails or mineral marks show where the leak runs.
Tools: Screwdriver, Flashlight
Tighten connections
With the water off, snug the supply fitting at the inlet valve by hand plus a quarter turn with pliers; don't overtighten plastic parts. Check that the drain hose clamp sits squarely over the hose end.
Tools: Pliers, Screwdriver
Dry the pan and free the float
Soak up the water in the base pan and let the unit dry with the door open for at least a day. With power off, gently lift the float by hand to make sure it moves freely and drops back.
Tools: Towels & shallow pan, Flashlight
Run a supervised test
Leave the lower panel off, restore water and power and start a short cycle. Watch the connections from a distance with a flashlight and stop the cycle as soon as you see a drip.
Tools: Flashlight
How to reset AE
- Keep the dishwasher unplugged until the base pan is dry and the float has dropped.
- Restore power and turn the dishwasher on; AE should no longer show.
- Run a short cycle with the kick plate off and check for drips before putting everything back together.
Where the parts are
- 1Door lock
- 2Water inlet valve
- 3Filter
- 4Circulation pump
- 5Heating element
- 6Drain pump
- 7Float switch
- 8Temperature sensor
- 9Water level sensor
Repair options & costs
| Repair | DIY? | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|
| Dry base pan, fix detergent | Yes | $0–$15 |
| Tighten supply fitting or replace washer | Yes | $0–$15 |
| New braided supply line | Yes | $15–$35 |
| Technician leak diagnosis | No | $120–$250 |
| Sump, pump seal or leak sensor repair | No | $200–$450 |
Rough US estimates; technician call-out fees vary by region. Not a quote.
When to call a technician
Call a technician if the leak comes from inside the tub area (sump, pump or spray arm supply) or if AE returns after the connections are tight, the detergent is right and the pan was fully dry. Also call if AE shows while the float is clearly down and the pan is dry.
Frequently asked questions
My new LG showed AE on the first run. Is it defective?
Usually not. A supply line fitting that wasn't fully tightened or a missing rubber washer is a classic first-run cause. Check the inlet connection behind the kick plate before calling for warranty service.
Is AE the same as E1?
On some older LG models the leak error appears as E1. Newer models use AE for the same condition.
Can I bypass the leak sensor to keep using the dishwasher?
No. The sensor is what stops a small leak from turning into a flooded kitchen floor. Find and fix the leak instead.
Why is the floor dry if there's water in the base?
The base pan is designed to catch small leaks before they reach the floor. That is exactly why AE is useful: it warns you early, before there is visible damage.
Sources
- Official LG user documentation and support pages (facts only; wording is our own)
- Methodology: How We Build Code Pages · Data Sources We Use · Editorial Policy