Samsung Washing Machine Error HE – Causes & Fix
The water didn't reach the set temperature in time, or the heating circuit reads wrong. Mostly front-loaders.
At a glance
Severity: Low
- Meaning
- Heater Error – Water Not Heating Properly
- Typical repair cost
- $0–$480
- DIY difficulty
- Moderate
Samsung front-loaders have a heating element in the bottom of the outer tub and a temperature sensor (thermistor) that reports how fast the water warms. During heated cycles such as Sanitize, Allergen or Steam, the control expects the temperature to rise within a set time; if it doesn't, or the reading jumps implausibly, it shows HE (sometimes HE1, HE2 or HE3). The related HC means the opposite – too hot. US models mostly heat with house hot water and use the element for high-temperature options, so HE usually shows up only on those cycles.
How it looks on the display
Model families & display variants
| Model family | Shows | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Current front-load models | HE | Heating error; SmartThings shows it on Wi-Fi models. |
| Models with sub-codes | HE1 / HE2 / HE3 | Split heating faults, e.g. wash heater versus steam heater; the exact mapping depends on the model. |
| Most Samsung washers | HC | The opposite problem: water too hot, often from very hot supply water or a heater that stays on. |
Safety first · Consult a professional
Unplug the washer before any panel comes off – the heater runs on line voltage. After a hot cycle, let the water and the element cool before draining or touching anything.
- Unplug the appliance or switch off the breaker before opening any panel. Mains voltage can kill.
- Hot surfaces and hot water can cause burns. Let the appliance cool down first.
Symptoms
- HE appears during Sanitize, Allergen, Steam or other hot cycles
- Cold-water cycles run normally
- Hot cycles take much longer than usual before the code shows
- Laundry comes out cool on a cycle that should be hot
- GFCI outlet or breaker trips when the washer starts heating
Possible causes
Ranked by how often each cause is behind this code (editorial estimate).
- Heating element burned out (open circuit), often after years of scale buildup
- Temperature sensor (thermistor) faulty or its plug corroded
- Heater shorted to ground, tripping the GFCI or breaker
- Loose or burnt terminal on the heater wires
- Heater relay or control board not switching the element
- Steam generator fault on steam models (separate heater)
Fix it step by step
Note when it happens
Check whether HE shows only on heated options. If cold and normal warm cycles finish fine, the washer is otherwise healthy and the fault is in the heating circuit.
Check the outlet and breaker
Laundry outlets are often GFCI-protected. If the GFCI trips as heating begins, stop using heated cycles – that pattern points to a heater leaking current to ground.
Reach the heater
Unplug the washer. The element sits in the bottom of the outer tub; depending on the model you reach its terminals by removing the back panel or the lower front panel. Photograph the wiring before touching anything.
Tools: Screwdriver, Flashlight
Measure the element
With the wires off, measure across the heater terminals. A 120 V US wash heater typically reads roughly 10–20 Ω; an open reading means it's burned out. Then measure each terminal to the metal bracket – any reading other than open means a short to ground.
Tools: Multimeter
Check the thermistor
The thermistor is usually clipped into the heater bracket or the tub. Its resistance should be several kilo-ohms at room temperature and drop smoothly as you warm it in your hand; open, zero or erratic readings mean replace it.
Tools: Multimeter
Replace and refit carefully
When fitting a new heater, slide it into the rail inside the tub so it can't touch the drum, then tighten the center nut until the rubber seal is snug. A misplaced heater can leak or be scraped by the drum.
Tools: Screwdriver, Flashlight
How to reset HE
- Press Power to turn the washer off and unplug it for a minute.
- Plug in and run a cold Rinse+Spin to make sure the washer works otherwise.
- Then test a short heated cycle and stay nearby.
- If HE returns, or the GFCI trips, stop using heated cycles until the heater circuit is repaired.
Where the parts are
- 1Door lock
- 2Water inlet valve
- 3Water level sensor
- 4Filter
- 5Drain pump
- 6Motor
- 7Heating element
- 8Temperature sensor
Repair options & costs
| Repair | DIY? | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|
| Tighten or replace a loose heater terminal | Yes | $0–$15 |
| Thermistor (DIY part) | Yes | $15–$40 |
| Heating element (DIY part) | Yes | $40–$90 |
| Heater replaced by a technician | No | $170–$320 |
| Control board or steam generator repair | No | $250–$480 |
Rough US estimates; technician call-out fees vary by region. Not a quote.
When to call a technician
Book a technician if the GFCI trips when heating starts, if the heater and sensor measure fine but HE returns, or if you're not comfortable working at line-voltage terminals. Board and steam-generator faults also need service.
Frequently asked questions
Can I keep washing with HE?
Cold and warm cycles that use house hot water will generally still work. Avoid Sanitize, Allergen and Steam until the heater circuit is fixed, and stop entirely if the GFCI trips.
Does my Samsung top-loader have a heater?
Many US Samsung top-loaders rely on hot water from the house and have no wash heater, so HE is mainly a front-loader code. If your top-loader shows a temperature code, check the hot supply first.
What does HC mean compared to HE?
HE means the water didn't heat up as expected; HC means it got too hot. HC often happens when the cold hose is connected to hot water, or when the heater stays on because of a board fault.
Why did the heater fail?
Scale from hard water builds up on the element and makes it run hotter until it burns open. Regular Self Clean cycles and the right detergent dose help the new one last.
Sources
- Official Samsung user documentation and support pages (facts only; wording is our own)
- Methodology: How We Build Code Pages · Data Sources We Use · Editorial Policy