Samsung Washing Machine Error 1C – Water Level Sensor Error
The control gets no believable signal from the water-level sensor – usually its air hose, plug or sensor.
At a glance
Severity: Low
- Meaning
- Water Level Sensor Error
- Typical repair cost
- $0–$480
- DIY difficulty
- Moderate
A Samsung washer doesn't use a float to judge the water level. A small electronic pressure sensor near the top of the cabinet is connected by a thin air hose to a chamber at the bottom of the tub; as water rises, trapped air is compressed and the sensor's output frequency changes. If that signal is missing or outside the range the control expects, it can't fill or drain safely and stops with 1C (1E on older models). Unlike OC or 4C, the level itself isn't the problem – the measurement is.
How it looks on the display
Model families & display variants
| Model family | Shows | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Current front-load and top-load models | 1C | Water-level sensor fault; SmartThings shows it on connected models. |
| Older Samsung washers | 1E | Earlier label for the same sensor fault. |
| Samsung washer-dryers | 1C | Same sensor and same checks; the sensor sits under the top panel like on washers. |
Safety first · Consult a professional
Unplug the washer before removing the top panel; the sensor sits close to mains wiring. Close the supply valves if you'll be disconnecting any hose.
- Unplug the appliance or switch off the breaker before opening any panel. Mains voltage can kill.
Symptoms
- 1C appears right after pressing Start, before any water comes in
- Washer fills but stops unexpectedly with 1C mid-cycle
- Code appeared after the washer was moved, tipped or delivered
- Water level looks normal, yet the washer won't continue
- In an unheated garage, 1C appears only in cold weather
Possible causes
Ranked by how often each cause is behind this code (editorial estimate).
- Air hose to the sensor disconnected, kinked or pinched after moving the washer
- Air hose or air chamber clogged with detergent sludge or holding trapped water
- Water-level (pressure) sensor failed
- Loose or damp connector at the sensor, often after a leak from the drawer area
- Water frozen in the air hose (unheated garage or porch)
- Main control board fault
Fix it step by step
Reset and retry
Turn the washer off, unplug it for a minute and try a Rinse+Spin. A one-off 1C after a power glitch often doesn't come back.
Think about recent moves
If the washer was just delivered, moved or laid on its side, the air hose has often slipped off its connector. That's the first thing to check once the top panel is off.
Open the top panel
Unplug the washer and close the valves. On most Samsung front-loaders, remove the screws at the back of the top panel and slide it backward; the round or square sensor with a thin hose attached sits on the frame near the top. On top-loaders it's typically behind the rear control console.
Tools: Screwdriver, Flashlight
Check the hose and blow it clear
Follow the air hose from the sensor down toward the tub and look for kinks, cracks or a loose end. Pull it off the sensor and blow gently down the hose toward the tub: you should hear bubbling if water is inside. Never blow into the sensor itself.
Tools: Flashlight
Inspect the sensor plug
Unplug the sensor connector and look for corrosion or moisture, especially if detergent or water ever overflowed from the drawer. Dry it, reconnect firmly and make sure the hose is pushed fully onto the sensor nipple with its clip in place.
Tools: Flashlight
Replace the sensor if needed
If the hose is clear, the connector clean and 1C still appears, the sensor is the next part to try – it's inexpensive and held by one screw or a clip. A technician can measure its output frequency first if you'd rather confirm.
Tools: Screwdriver, Multimeter
How to reset 1C
- Press Power to switch the washer off.
- Unplug it for about a minute.
- Plug in and start Rinse+Spin; watch that water flows in and stops at a normal level.
- If 1C returns straight away, the sensor circuit is still faulty.
Where the parts are
- 1Door lock
- 2Water inlet valve
- 3Water level sensor
- 4Filter
- 5Drain pump
- 6Motor
- 7Heating element
- 8Temperature sensor
Repair options & costs
| Repair | DIY? | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|
| Reconnect or straighten the air hose | Yes | $0 |
| New air hose | Yes | $8–$20 |
| Water-level sensor (DIY part) | Yes | $25–$60 |
| Sensor replaced by a technician | No | $140–$250 |
| Main control board replaced | No | $250–$480 |
Rough US estimates; technician call-out fees vary by region. Not a quote.
When to call a technician
Call a technician if the hose and plug are fine and a new sensor doesn't help, or if you're not comfortable removing the top panel. Persistent 1C with a known-good sensor points to the control board.
Frequently asked questions
What's the difference between 1C, 4C and OC?
4C means the water didn't rise in time and OC means there's too much water – both are real level problems. 1C means the level signal itself is missing or implausible, so the washer can't trust any reading.
Can I still use the washer with 1C?
No. Without a working level sensor the washer can't tell when to stop filling or whether the tub is empty, so it refuses to run. That protects your floor.
Why did 1C start after I moved the washer?
Tipping or jolting the washer can pop the thin air hose off the sensor or kink it against the frame. Reattaching it usually clears the code.
Is 1C caused by the cold?
It can be. In an unheated garage a little water in the air hose can freeze and block the pressure signal. Warm the space and the code often disappears.
Sources
- Official Samsung user documentation and support pages (facts only; wording is our own)
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