Samsung Washing Machine Error 4C – Causes & Fix
The washer didn't sense enough water in time – usually a closed valve, kinked hose or clogged inlet screen.
At a glance
Severity: Low
- Meaning
- Water Supply Error – Not Filling Enough
- Typical repair cost
- $0–$450
- DIY difficulty
- Easy
While a Samsung washer fills, the control watches a pressure-type water-level sensor. If the level hasn't risen far enough within the allowed fill time, it stops the cycle and shows 4C (4E on older models). In most homes the cause is outside the machine: a supply valve that is off or only half open, a hose pinched behind the washer, or the small mesh screens in the washer's inlet ports packed with sediment. On US machines with separate hot and cold hoses, the code can show up only on warm or hot cycles when just one supply is affected.
How it looks on the display
Model families & display variants
| Model family | Shows | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Most current front-load and top-load models | 4C | Standard water-supply alarm. Smart models show the same code in the SmartThings app. |
| Older Samsung washers | 4E | Older label for the same water-supply fault; the checks are identical. |
| Some models with hot and cold inlets | 4C2 | Sub-code that points to water that is too hot at the cold inlet – typically hot and cold hoses swapped during installation. |
| Some older top-load models | nF | Short for no fill; same fault and same checks as 4C. |
Safety first · Consult a professional
The inlet hoses are under full house water pressure. Close both supply valves and unplug the washer before you unscrew a hose or pull out an inlet screen.
- Water and electricity: unplug first, keep towels ready and never stand in water while the appliance is connected.
Symptoms
- 4C appears a few minutes after pressing Start
- Little or no sound of water running into the drum
- Water only trickles in and the fill takes much longer than usual
- The code shows on warm or hot cycles but not on cold ones
- The washer hums at the start of the fill but no water arrives
- 4C after a freezing night with the washer in an unheated garage
Possible causes
Ranked by how often each cause is behind this code (editorial estimate).
- Hot and/or cold supply valve closed or only partly open, often after plumbing work or a move
- Mesh screens in the washer's inlet ports clogged with sediment, rust or scale
- Inlet hose kinked or crushed when the washer was pushed back against the wall
- Low house water pressure (well system, pressure drop) or a frozen hose in a garage
- Faulty water inlet valve or a loose connector on its coils
- Drain hose pushed deep into the standpipe or sealed airtight, so water siphons out while filling
- Water-level sensor, its hose or the main control board
Fix it step by step
Open both supply valves fully
Reach behind the washer and turn both the hot and the cold valve fully counterclockwise. Quarter-turn lever valves are open when the handle lines up with the pipe, not across it.
Tools: Flashlight
Straighten the inlet hoses
Pull the washer out a few inches and look for a hose folded against the wall or bent sharply at the connector. A permanently kinked rubber hose should be replaced with a pair of braided stainless hoses.
Tools: Flashlight
Check the flow at the valve
Close the valves, unplug the washer and unscrew one hose at the back of the machine. Hold the free end in a bucket and open the valve briefly: you should get a strong, steady stream. Repeat for the other hose.
Tools: Towels & shallow pan, Pliers
Clean the inlet screens
With the hoses off, you'll see small mesh filters inside the washer's inlet ports. Ease them out with needle-nose pliers, rinse them under a tap and brush away grit, then press them back in – never run the washer without them.
Tools: Pliers, Soft brush, Towels & shallow pan
Look at the drain hose setup
If the drain hose is pushed far down the standpipe or taped airtight into it, water can siphon out as fast as it comes in, and the level never builds. Leave an air gap and hold the hose with its U-shaped guide so only a few inches go into the pipe.
Tools: Flashlight
Rule out freezing and low pressure
In an unheated garage, let the space warm up before trying again; a frozen hose or valve looks exactly like a closed tap. On a private well, check the pressure tank gauge and see whether other faucets also run weak.
Tools: Flashlight
Listen to the inlet valve
If water flows strongly at the valve and the screens are clean, but the washer only hums or stays silent at fill, the inlet valve or its wiring is the likely fault. Testing the valve coils with a multimeter is advanced DIY; otherwise book a technician.
Tools: Multimeter, Screwdriver
How to reset 4C
- Press Power to turn the washer off.
- Unplug it or switch off its breaker for about a minute so the control fully resets.
- Plug it back in, make sure both valves are open and start Rinse+Spin to confirm water flows in.
- If 4C returns within the first few minutes, the supply problem is still there – recheck screens and hoses.
Where the parts are
- 1Door lock
- 2Water inlet valve
- 3Water level sensor
- 4Filter
- 5Drain pump
- 6Motor
- 7Heating element
- 8Temperature sensor
Repair options & costs
| Repair | DIY? | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|
| Open valves or straighten a kinked hose | Yes | $0 |
| Clean inlet screens | Yes | $0–$10 |
| New braided stainless inlet hoses (pair) | Yes | $20–$45 |
| Water inlet valve replaced by a technician | No | $150–$300 |
| Water-level sensor or control board repair | No | $200–$450 |
Rough US estimates; technician call-out fees vary by region. Not a quote.
When to call a technician
Call Samsung service or an appliance technician if both valves give a strong flow, the screens are clean and the washer still shows 4C or only hums during the fill. Also get help right away if 4C comes with water on the floor – that points to a leak, not a supply problem.
Frequently asked questions
Why did 4C start right after plumbing work or a water main repair?
Work on the pipes stirs up sand, rust and scale, which the washer's inlet screens catch. The screens do their job but clog quickly – cleaning them usually clears 4C.
Does my Samsung washer need both hot and cold water connected?
US Samsung washers are built to be connected to both. If the hot supply is off or missing, warm and hot cycles may fill slowly or stop with 4C, so check your manual before running with cold only.
Can I keep restarting the washer when 4C shows up?
Restarting won't hurt anything, but it won't fix a closed valve or a blocked screen either. If the code returns every time, work through the supply checks instead of repeating the cycle.
What does 4C2 mean on my Samsung?
On models that use it, 4C2 means the water arriving at the cold inlet is too hot. Most often the hoses were swapped at install – follow each hose back to its valve and reconnect them correctly.
Sources
- Official Samsung user documentation and support pages (facts only; wording is our own)
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